If the dial was solid or mostly solid, there isn’t another watch in this category that could compare. JM: The Angelus U30 is an incredible movement that sadly is paired with a dial that is fairly illegible, so it takes a bit hit up front. I could imagine picking it if it just blew me away in person with its wrist presence, but my overall impression from the photos is that it lacks both harmony and legibility. GG: For me the Angelus U30 Black is a bit too much of a good thing: split-second flyback chronograph, tourbillon, and aggressive-looking openworking all in one watch. This watch fell somewhat off the radar under the weight of everything the two brands were releasing all at once. There was so much creation there – more than I could ever take in in a single year. I lament his departure there, I really do. It was one of the launches of the 2015 reformed Angelus brand under the direction of Sébastian Chaulmontet, who was an absolute powerhouse of creation and creativity while he headed up both this brand and Arnold & Son under the umbrella of La Joux-Perret (and now Citizen, who owns all three).
That’s not to knock this watch at all in fact, I love everything about it except its 47 mm size, which was still rather acceptable in 2016, but much less so in 2021.Īngelus U30 Black Tourbillon, Flyback and Split-Second Chronograph Angelus U30 Black Tourbillon, Flyback and Split-Second ChronographĮD: This watch was originally released in 2016, and this is simply a limited-edition color change of the case. IS: I would be happy to own and wear most of the watches here – they are all extremely strong contenders – but one in particular made me smile, one is too big, and three are re-editions of previously seen models. I won’t care as much about materials unless the material functionally adds to the chronograph function itself. In my mind, legibility will always be a main factor, as well as ease of use, followed by creative displays and unique designs. Because of this it really is just about how cohesive and useful each watch is in relation to the chronograph, leading to our varied opinions about what is important in a chronograph watch. There is no call for innovative chronograph technology, precision, unique displays, materials, or additional functions. JM: The Chronograph category is a relatively competitive one because it is very focused but at the same time unspecific about what makes a winning watch. Lange & Söhne that would have been a head-and-shoulders winner for me here had it been entered. I am left ruing some of the watches from brands who chose not to participate, including the fantastic 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold by A. I do have my store of experience with variants of the movements in four of these pieces, though, and will draw on that in my ranking. GG: As with many of the categories this year, I really wish that I’d had the opportunity to see all these watches in person, strap them on, and check out the pusher feel on the chronographs. When I’m wearing a chronograph I always find an excuse to use the timer function, which often results in timing the most ridiculous things. MG: The chronograph is one of the most popular complications. Which leaves me with one possible winner according to my own criteria.
One of those new watches is so new and different that I believe it will be too polarizing, even if I would have picked it as my winner had I believed it would win. Nominated Chronograph watches in the 2021 GPHGĮD: With only two brand-new watches in the field, this category mostly comprises facelifted models that we have seen before.